Author: Easin' Along

They came to Gettysburg because the roads led them there. In July 1863 Gettysburg was much like it is today. Rows of houses dotted the hillsides. Farms and fields stood lush green in color. Cows and horses grazed lazily in roadside pastures.  Fences and barns were in good repair.

Confederate General Robert E. Lee led his Army of Northern Virginia with 70,000 men northward after the battle of Chancellorsville. Lee hoped to restock his Army with much-needed food and supplies and perhaps draw some of the Union Forces into the area and away from campaigns in the south. The roads led him to Gettysburg.

Lee’s cavalry, under the command of General J.E.B. Stuart, was on a scouting run. Therefore Lee had no idea that The Army of the Potomac, some 93,000 men strong commanded by General George Meade were nearby. Over the next three days, these two armies collided in the fiercest battle ever fought on the North American continent, and the result ultimately decided whether there would be one nation or two between Canada and the Rio Grande. It all happened because the roads led them to Gettysburg.

Helen (adorable wife) and I came to Gettysburg under much less ominous circumstances. We came from Front Royal, Virginia and, while the road led us to Gettysburg, we intended to go there and spend some time exploring the area as well as the Gettysburg National Military Park. We had a reservation at the Gettysburg Campground for four nights. Robert, the owner of the campground, met us when we arrived. He immediately noticed the University of Tennessee decal on the window of Bert (truck) and proudly introduced himself as an alum of our great university. We knew we liked him.

After getting Gracey (trailer) settled into a cozy campsite with a wide stream to our rear, we drove the short distance into town to pick up our dinner for the evening at Tommy’s Pizza. The drive took us alongside the battlefield.  We couldn’t help but note that this was hallowed ground. Our pizza was extraordinary, and we ate while we watched television inside Gracey–the first and only time we would stay in a campsite with cable television on our trip. Outside our trailer, rain fell in buckets.

The next morning we took advantage of the clean and spacious showers in the campground.  While there, Helen learned from another camper that the overnight rainfall had dumped three and a half inches of rain on us with more on the way. When we returned to Gracey, a gentleman from the campground came to tell us that the campground was closing because of the fear of flooding from the stream behind us. We were forced to move to another campground on Artillery Ridge adjacent to the battlefield and higher ground. We hated to leave because Gettysburg Campground is very, very nice.

The next morning we signed up for a Battlefield tour. The rain continued, but we decided to make the best of it.  I was eager to take the tour.  Many years ago I visited Gettysburg while on duty as an Army Reservist at nearby Indiantown Gap, PA. That visit was short, but I learned enough to know I had to return.

Despite the rain, the Visitor Center and Museum in the National Park was a hub of activity.  Helen and I watched a film that gave an overview of the three days of fighting and visited the cyclorama featuring a huge artistic depiction of day three of the battle. After that, we boarded a bus full of civil war buffs.  The tour guide joined us after everyone was seated and introduced himself.  He appeared to be close to my age and gave a great opening presentation of what we were about to see.  Everyone was asked to tell us what state they called home.  Helen and I were the only Tennesseans. Most of the crowd were Northerners…I immediately let them know I held no grudges.

The bus tour began on Seminary Ridge where General Lee formed his Army to begin the final day’s battle. Although the day was gloomy, we could see Cemetary Hill where the Union Forces gathered a mile away. I took a moment to photograph the monument dedicated to the Army of Tennessee.

Once we left Seminary Ridge, we visited all of the prominent sites of the battlefield including the Peach Orchard, Little Round Top, Devil’s Den, Valley of Death, The Codori Farm, and the Copse of Trees that served as the focal point for Pickett’s Charge. We made our way to Cemetary Hill and the stone wall that was pierced by only one Confederate officer and marked the final moments of the battle.

Our group looked back across the battlefield toward Seminary Ridge as the tour guide narrated the advance of 12,000 men led by Brigadier General George Pickett across the mile-long open field facing withering rifle fire and canister rounds. That march of Confederates cost Lee 5,000 men in an hour. Those who survived were turned back as the Union soldiers yelled out in the victory. Signs near the stone wall noted that, after three days of fighting, the total number of casualties numbered over 50,000 men killed, wounded, or captured. I was exhausted, and all I did was ride on a bus.

The Civil War would go on for almost two years beyond Gettysburg. However, this battle marked the “High Water Mark” for the Confederacy. As everyone knows, the Union would ultimately prevail. Portions of the battlefield at Gettysburg became a National Cemetary dedicated to the brave men that fought and died there and later commemorated by President Lincoln in his historic address.

Our visit to the battlefield on a rain-soaked day added to the somber feel that surrounds it.  Nevertheless, I consider it an honor to walk those hallowed grounds, and I’m grateful that the roads led us there.

We left our campsite at Stone Mountain State Park near Roaring Gap, NC and soon crossed into Virginia. We were still on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and the overlooks continued to amaze and astound. The picture of the Shenandoah Valley (above)is a good illustration. Our destinations for the next eight nights included Horseshoe Point Recreation Area, near Henry, VA, and Bolar Mountain Recreation Area in Warm Springs, VA and close to the West Virginia border. We were about to enter the “quiet period” of our journey.

Unlike many of our RV stops which include sightseeing, flea market browsing, and sampling the local food and beverage offerings, these two visits would contain none of that…because none of that existed there. We were going into the deep woods. It was time for some solitude and, we would eat our own cooking for a few days.

Horseshoe Point is several miles off of the Parkway and adjacent to Philpott Lake. The campground is nice and offers both water and electric. The shower facility is clean and seems almost new. As it often happens, we arrived during a rainstorm which makes un-hooking setting up a real challenge, especially on a site with a few large pine trees adding to the difficulty of backing into a campsite. Nevertheless, we got it done despite the rain.

Over the next day or so, we relaxed. Helen (adorable wife) took the time to do some deep cleaning inside Gracey as well as spending time on her puzzle that is more of a challenge than she realized. I spent my time finishing up a book containing short biographies of all 425 Generals of the Confederacy. Some of those men led amazing lives, and I wanted to complete the book before we made it to Gettysburg.

In addition to those vigorous activities, we ventured to nearby Fairystone State Park where I picked up one of the Fairystones found in the area. I had visited the park with my family at around age 12 and felt obligated to return. On the way back, Helen and I drove to Ferrum, VA to do our laundry and briefly browse a flea market. On our last day there, we drove to the overlook at Philpott Lake. By now, I’m confident that I have put every Easin’ Along reader to sleep but, if not, read on. By the time I take you through Bolar Mountain, you may be in a coma.

Bolar Mountain Recreation is an almost two-hour drive west of the Blue Ridge Parkway. We did not realize that at the time we made the reservation. It is not that far as the crow flies, but crossing the mountains along some twists and turns at 35 mph takes time. The campground is very isolated and primarily used by folks who come to fish the scenic waters of Lake Moomaw. The gentleman camped next to us comes every year for six weeks along with several of his buddies.

This campground is quieter than quiet. For activity, Helen and I swam in the lake, which we had to ourselves on a misty, but lovely, day. Beyond that, the most action I had was chasing a Pileated Woodpecker around the campground to take his picture. We read a lot here also. By the end of our second day, Helen said that she was ready to end our “Wilderness Experience” and that it was time to move on. It was more than boredom that prompted the decision, however. On paper, it appeared that Gettysburg was about a four-hour drive away, but with the mountains and curving roads in front of us, that trip extended to more than six hours, and we don’t do six unless we have to. We made a reservation for one night in Front Royal, VA which is at the end of a charming drive along the Virginia Skyline. The campground we booked in Gettysburg allowed us to come a day early.

We can’t say much for the campground, but the town of Front Royal is charming. Trip Advisor told us that we had to eat breakfast at L Dees Pancake House and, for that, we’re genuinely grateful. The small diner was filled with locals (always a good sign) and the staff was polite, efficient, and seemed to be having a great time greeting and serving all their friends who came for breakfast. Helen’s omelet was excellent, and my pancakes were the best. Outside of the restaurant and all along the street, flower baskets hung from poles, adding a touch of charm to this small town.

If you’re still with me after all of this frenzied activity, I have to let you know that, in spite of the low key nature of these past two stops, we enjoyed our time in both of them. We needed a pause and time to breathe some mountain air. What’s the hurry, we say. We’re supposed to be Easin’ Along anyway.

Next week – Gettysburg National Military Park.

We are back in full contact with the world and delighted about that. Traveling along the Blue Ridge Parkway has been an excellent adventure blessed with some of the most impressive scenery in our country. Helen (adorable wife) and I have been unable to drive by the majority of the overlooks without stopping to stare at the peaks as well as the valleys below. It is probably a good thing that cell and internet service is almost nonexistent up here; otherwise, too many of us might be tempted to stare at our devices instead of the beauty God gave us. Nevertheless, the lack of service does put a hold on blogging, although I’m not complaining.

After leaving our beautiful campsite in Newland, NC, Helen and I eased Gracey along the Parkway to Stone Mountain State Park near Roaring Gap, NC. Google Maps said this was a two-hour drive, but at the posted speed limit of 35 mph and a lot of stops at overlooks, we were on the road for nearly five hours. By then we were ready to get settled in our new home for the next four nights. The park attendant allowed us to drive through the campground to inspect our site, or to choose another one that we liked better. Helen always does the picking because she is pick-yyy! Helen chose a cozy campsite along a small creek. We couldn’t have done better. We still had great weather, so our windows remained open and, after a hot dog dinner, we crashed for the night.

The next morning we decided that it was time to try out Helen’s new knees and my new hip on one of the many hiking trails in the park. My hip was now seven weeks old and, while still a bit stiff, I felt comfortable enough to walk a short trail accompanied by a hiking pole for added safety. We took a path to the top of Stone Mountain Falls, a 1.2-mile hike roundtrip. According to the Park map, this is a moderate trail. Game on!

The trail had an abundant amount of wildflowers and ferns which made it very enjoyable.  We rose a bit in elevation, but otherwise, there was no difficulty reaching the waterfall. Helen made one stop at the remains of an old stone chimney before continuing. At the end of the trail, we met a couple who had hiked from the far end of the park and up the 255 steps from the base of the falls.  They looked worn out and suggested we not make the same hike. We agreed to take their advice.

We derived three benefits from this activity. First, the falls were beautiful although a better view was probably available from the base. Second, both of us felt fine after the hike and were ready to take a long walk the next day.  Third, we found that we had excellent cell service at the top of the falls, so we took the time to catch up on email and phone calls. I have to admit that I was a bit embarrassed in my delight at being connected, but that’s the world we live in now.

The day following, we were feeling a tad bit cocky about our hiking prowess. We decided to take a three-mile round trip hike, on a trail listed as moderate, to the base of the same waterfall from the trailhead near the campground.  One feature of this trail was a view of the massive stone cliff which gives the park its name, as well as a gentle creek that flowed from the waterfall along most of the trail. We were in the shade for almost the entire time, and the moist forest floor provided excellent conditions for ferns and shade-loving wildflowers. I confess that I have never been much of a hiker, but this trip was truly joyful, and I was more grateful than ever for the skill of my hip surgeon. After spending time taking a few pictures of the enhanced view at the base of the waterfall, we returned along the same trail.

Our time at Stone Mountain was restful and fun.  We were able to spend some time completing a few projects in Gracey like mounting some pictures and installing a new screen door handle, as well as reorganizing our storage compartments. We took one side trip that I have to share, however.  We visited Mayberry. Well, not Mayberry, but close enough to think so.

 

Mt. Airy, NC is the home of Andy Griffith and a forty-five-minute drive from our campground.  Everyone we met told us we had to go and, while there, eat at the Snappy Lunch, a small diner mentioned by Andy in his television show. Since food is one of the foundations of Easin’ Along, we were obligated to fulfill this mission. We were so excited; we didn’t eat breakfast that morning.

The town of Mt Airy is charming, and one does not have to look long to see its relationship to The Andy Griffith Show. You would think that the town was named Mayberry because almost every shop had some mention of a character from the show or the word Mayberry in its sign on the street. We found the Snappy Lunch next to Floyd’s Barber Shop (a real barbershop).

Helen and I sat at the lunch counter alongside a regular customer with a thick Carolina accent and an outgoing personality.  This gentleman let us know that we had to order the fried pork chop sandwich, the house specialty often mentioned by Andy Griffith on television. We were all in, and our cute young waitress had it out to us in a split second. The sandwich was as good as advertised. During lunch, we enjoyed looking at all of the Andy Griffith memorabilia on the walls. Some of it is visible in this picture of Helen chatting with her new best friend. After lunch, we walked Main Street and finished our visit by stopping in an excellent antique and consignment store where I found three souvenir thimbles to add to my growing collection. What a great way to cap off a fun day and a great stop on our Blue Ridge journey.

Next stop – Horseshoe Point Recreation Area, Henry, VA. Thanks for Easin’ Along!