Please visit the Picture Gallery that follows this post. Link here
On June 23rd, Helen and I were supposed to be camping beside Lake Louise in Canada’s Banff National Park. We made reservations last summer, but the border never opened due to COVID. Helen and I wanted to visit Lake Louise very much, so we agreed to give it another try this summer. On April 21st of this year, Parks Canada opened reservations at 8:00 am EST. I signed into their website at 8:00.01 that morning and was already number 39,525 in the queue. Five hours later, I had reservations for Lake Louise Campground.
The Canadian government planned to allow US citizens to cross on June 21 but later postponed the opening to July 21. As a result, we had to forgo a second attempt at camping in Canada.
Our mission now was to get from Whidbey Island, Washington, to the eastern entrance of Glacier National Park near St. Mary, Montana. We accomplished the task with three one-night stops in Moses Lake, WA, Moyie Springs, ID, and Kalispell, MT. We arrived at the KOA in St. Mary very road-weary.
Helen made her usual rounds through the campground, meeting people and getting the scoop on places to see and things to do. She received some bad news. We had explored the western side of Glacier the previous summer and looked forward to viewing the Glaciers of Glacier National Park on the eastern side, which closed in 2020. The bad news was that the Park Service required every visitor to obtain a pass to drive through the east entrance and travel Going to the Sun Road to the Visitor Center near the center of the Park. No car passes were available for the next two days, and only 165 would go on sale then. After a similar experience at Yosemite National Park, and now this, I was ready to peel the “National Park Geek” sticker off of Ruby and never again visit any of America’s treasures. Thankfully, calmer heads prevailed.
Although we tried to secure access through the east entrance every day, we had no luck until our next to last day there. All passes would sell out within 30 minutes every morning. After some checking around, Helen learned that some of the entrances to Glacier, besides the east gate, did not require a pass. We took advantage of every opportunity and had some delightful outings and hiking experiences in a portion of our country that’s so beautiful it defies description. Helen booked us a tour boat excursion on Two Medicine Lake. We spotted a moose partially hidden in the willows on the shore of the lake near Red Rock Falls.
We hiked to Red Rock, Running Eagle, and Baring waterfalls on three different days. The weather was as beautiful as the waterfalls. We also had a stunning view of Many Glacier and the calm waters near the observation point where we parked. On our first trip to Many Glacier, a Grizzly Bear came out to greet us. He had little to no interest in making small talk and wandered away. Park Rangers were nearby to monitor his behavior.
After finally securing vehicle passes for Going to the Sun Road, we packed up early on our last full day and drove slowly to the Visitor Center. Waterfalls, mountain peaks, and crystal clear lakes filled our view from every vantage point in that part of the Park. The lake surfaces reflected the scenery above them and gave my camera a workout.
The plan for the day was to hike to Hidden Lake, just beyond the Visitor Center. We attempted to take this hike last summer, but the trail was closed. The Grizzly Bears were chasing Mountain Goats as a main course for brunch. This year, Park Rangers denied us the opportunity once again. A Momma Grizzly and her two cubs were hanging out on the trail, and no one wants to mess with a Momma Grizzly. We hiked to some lookouts near the Visitor Center instead.
Our luck was not all bad. Walking back to the Visitor Center, I looked up to a cliff overhead as a Mountain Goat came into view. He lingered long enough for me to take several pictures before scampering off without missing a step on the rocks of the cliff.
A few minutes after he disappeared, a herd of Big Horn Sheep walked down a mountain slope across the trail from me. These fellows were quite handsome. I walked right up to them to take pictures. By the time they reached the roadside, they had attracted lots of attention from Park visitors but did not seem to mind. After at least thirty minutes of grazing, they slowly walked back up the slope out of view.
Although we encountered a few challenges on this visit to Glacier, I still consider our time there extremely rewarding. The beauty of the Park is jaw-dropping, the clear air is refreshing, and wildlife viewing is there for the taking. You have to see this one…we’re Easin’ Along.
Please see some additional photos in the Picture Gallery that follow this post. (Link here)
Joe, I’m so glad you and Helen persevered and were able to experience Glacier! How lucky you were to have beautiful weather and smoke-free skies.
We’ve been skunked three times in our attempts to visit Glacier. Once because of terrible weather, and twice because of wildfires and smoke. I haven’t been there since I was a child and Eric has never been. We’re still determined to visit, and your photos make me even more determined! Thanks for the gorgeous preview tour. Hope you two are enjoying being back at home!
Hi, Laurel,
Glacier is amazing! I hope y’all get there and Eric can do some birding. We’re settling in at home. Four months of mail finally got sorted or tossed. I’m in the waiting room at the Ford dealership getting Ruby serviced before we take off again. Hope you’re loving NC. Please stay in touch! Joe
Good stuff guys…. remind me to tell you our Glacier grizzly story!
That’s a story I would love to hear. Our Grizzly was a bit on the smallish side, but when he saw all the cars along the road and idiots out taking pictures up close, he charged. Thankfully, the Rangers steered him away.
Dottie and I LOVE Lake Louise. You have to eat at the Chateau there. We stayed there three nights.
Thanks for sharing such beautiful pics!
Hello, Foster,
If could ever be allowed in, I’m certain we would love it as well. Twice denied is enough for now. Maybe we’ll try again in a couple of years. Good to be home for a few months. See y’all in the‘hood. Joe
Traveling in a pandemic can be an adventure in itself, Joe. We are flying (as I type) from Spokane to San Diego, then on to Phoenix tomorrow for my step-daughter’s wedding on Monday in Sedona. We haven’t flown since BC (before covid). I feel your pain with closed borders, limited NP access and all that fun. My mom’s ashes are still waiting for when we can all go back to Yosemite. For now, we’re grateful that my step son-in-laws parents can travel from Canada this weekend to see their son get married. Your pics are gorgeous and hopefully next summer we can get over to Glacier NP. Take good care! I’m on a 3 week blog break and back on 9/12.
Terri,
So glad you checked in! Sounds like your break is busy enough without blogging, so enjoy. We love Sedona and had two awesome experiences camping at Dead Horse Ranch about 10 miles away. Great hiking around there. Hope y’all get to Glacier. It’s simply stunning. Joe
Hi Joe, sounds like you and Helen made lemonade out of lemons…as would expect you would! We had heard of the day pass situation and also that if you enter prior to 6 am and/or have a reservation somewhere in the park. Glacier is on our list for next year, so we are going to watch the situation carefully. Betsy has been parked here in NH all summer while Dan recovers from ankle fusion surgery. Hoping to take a leisurely month as we wander south beginning in late October.
Nancy,
Great to hear from you! You’re right about the 6am entry access, but the lines to get in at that time were so long, we ducked out and went searching for a nice breakfast spot. We’d rather eat than fight! Sending prayers out for Dan’s speedy recovery. Enjoy your trip south, and please stay in touch! Joe
Hi, Joe! Alan and I first visited Glacier on our honeymoon 40+ years ago and it remains one of our favorites. Our most recent visit was impacted by smoke from wildfires, so I’m truly appreciating your crisp, clear and absolutely gorgeous photos. Glacier quickly works its way into your heart, doesn’t it? Have a great day!
Good morning, Mary,
To know Glacier is to love Glacier, and I’m so grateful for the opportunity to visit this Park twice now–even with a few challenges. Would have liked to make it into Banff, but I’m happy having it to look forward to on another trip. A honeymoon in Glacier sounds lovely. Something tells me you didn’t camp tho’. ;-). Thanks for checking in. Joe
Ah, but we did, sir! We spent the first month of our marriage in a two person mountain tent with all of our gear in the trunk and back seat of a Pontiac sedan. We hit Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Rocky Mountain, Mt. Rushmore and the Badlands. Best. Trip. Ever. Our love for America’s National Parks was born on that epic journey, and we recreated the trip almost 30 years later with our two kids in tow. Magical!
Very impressive. What a wonderful way to begin a life together!
Joe, it sounds like you guys encountered a few challenges but the outcome was still great.
How lucky to have a bright, sunny day in Glacier. The clarity and color contrasts make your photos really special. You chose the perfect header photo to set the tone of this post.
Hi,
That picture of Many Glacier is among the top five from our trip. We had some setbacks, but Glacier NP is a real treasure and was worth the effort. Blue sky, fresh air, no humidity, and low crowds make for a very enjoyable experience. Hope you’re settling in to the new digs nicely. Thanks for checking in. Joe
What an incredible adventure, Joe and Helen (despite the obstacles)!
I’m so sorry that you were not able to make it into Canada on this trip. Hopefully there will be a next one — and hopefully you’ll decide to come to Vancouver Island!
I’m off to visit your photo gallery post now!
Hi, Donna,
I’m confident that we’ll make it to Vancouver Island even if we have to swim. We visited Victoria several years ago and had a grand time–so beautiful. Need to have some time to explore your part of the world. Your recent post with fellow bloggers looked like a grand time. Can’t wait to hear more about it! Joe
Hi, Joe and Helen – I left a comment a bit earlier but I’m not sure if it went through (I tend to be a bit of a Captcha failure). 😀
If it didn’t go through I just wanted you to know that I loved following this advenure and hope that you make it into Canada one day soon!
Donna,
Wow, three comments in one day from Donna is bragging material. Thanks so much for the nice comments and we’ll make it into Canada someday. It looks like we’ll go to Nova Scotia next year since we want to travel up the east coast, but we have family on your side of the continent, so we’ll get to Vancouver someday. You and Richard would love East Tennessee and the welcome mat is always out. Bluegrass music and Bar-be-que awaits you! Have a great week! Joe