We left my sister’s summer place in Yelm, WA, and drove about 175 miles to Oak Harbor, a small port city on Washington’s northwest corner. At Naval Air Station Whidbey Island, Cliffside RV Park is where we would make our home for the next five nights. At the end of those five nights, I felt tempted to stay forever.
Cliffside RV Park is a jewel in the military campground inventory. There are about fifty paved campsites, and it is the essence of shoreline living. Ken, the camp host, is also a horticulturist and master gardener who spends most of his days tending to the fantastic flower beds he created throughout the campground.
Helen and I parked Dora in a lovely campsite alongside one of Ken’s masterpiece gardens with a view overlooking Puget Sound. At the time, we didn’t know that we also had a front-row seat for the glorious sunset display that appeared every night of our visit. Somewhat later, we learned that campers at Cliffside often referred to this location as “Sunset Harbor.” Read on, and I’ll give you a taste of the beauty we witnessed.
We spent much of our time at Cliffside walking the tree-covered trails adjacent to the campground. The campground beach was very inviting, and we enjoyed spending time letting the calm water and salt-scented air refresh our road-weary bones. Two bald eagles entertained us when they weren’t scouting for fish from the evergreen tree over our trailer.
When the time came for us to do some scouting ourselves, we made a reservation for the ferry to San Juan Island. The boat ride alone was worth the price of the trip. Jaw-dropping beauty from every angle left us stunned. In the distance, snow-capped Mt. Baker towered over the water like a majestic giant.
We arrived at the town of Friday Harbor and, after walked around a bit to get our legs under us, we boarded a trolley for a one-hour tour of San Juan Island. I was surprised at how much farming there was on the island, but I suppose that an island needs home-grown foods. At one point, Vancouver Island came into view beyond the Canadian border. I sent a silent wave to my blogging friend, Donna (Retirement Reflections), who makes her home there. We wanted to visit Vancouver Island, but the border is still closed to American travelers. Maybe next time…
The next day, we had a surprise visit from a camper on the site next to us in the campground. They were hosting some friends from a town nearby to a dinner of Penn Cove mussels and salad. Roxie, a lovely lady from Roy, WA, came to invite us to dinner. Denis, her husband, and his friend, Jay, had bought way more than they could eat and asked if we could join them. It turned out that this was our lucky day, although I wasn’t confident at the time.
I cannot recall if I have ever eaten mussels and wasn’t sure if I wanted to now. I love seafood, so why not give mussels a try? Denis prepared a tasty brine and stewed the mussels in them. The smell was very enticing, and, by now, I was eager to dive in. The shells of the mussels had a lovely rich brown color which made them even more appealing. Denis served them in bowls and spooned the flavorful brine on top of them. I started slowly but, in the end, consumed more than my share. They were so tender and delicious I could not stop plucking them from their shells. Surprisingly, there were leftovers, but I had my fill. I had a pleasant conversation with Jay and his wife, Linda. We discovered that we both had served the Army in Germany about the same time and enjoyed reliving the experience together. We had a lovely time, and I give the entire evening a “10.”
Now, for the sunsets of “Sunset Harbor.” Because we were so far to the north at the same time as the summer equinox, the sun went down very late. I don’t remember the exact time and could probably find it with a bit of research (help me, Donna), but it was well past nine o’clock. We had light clouds around for most evenings, which always help to add some texture to the scene. In addition, smoke from far-away wildfires had filtered into the area, adding some brilliant red to the sky. The result was spectacular, and my photographs don’t do it justice but trust me, each display was something to remember. I have four images, each taken on a different night in the gallery below. I have one enlargement from the fifth night posted separately. It is my favorite of the group.
Helen and I use military campgrounds whenever we can, and Cliffside is as good as any of them and better than most for the sheer beauty of the surroundings. I would rank it right next to the Campground at Coronado Beach as a favorite. I have a picture gallery of sunsets and pictures of our entire visit as a separate post. (Click here to visit).
As mentioned earlier, I felt tempted to stay longer, but it’s time to be Easin’ Along. Delighted you could join us.
Hi Joe, spectacular images of your Washington trip! We can’t wait to travel more to the west side and see all these glorious sights, so well cataloged by you. Being so far north ourselves, I recall last light on the Spokane side being about 10:30pm. Sunset here was close to 9:45pm. I enjoy hearing about your success in staying in military RV parks. It makes road travel easier and safe. BTW, your shot of Mt Baker is jaw-dropping. Have a wonderful week!
Thanks, Terri,
The entire week on Whidbey Island was fantastic–I’m certain you would love it. Still disappointed that we could not get together, but we’ll be back. Cliffside campground deserves another look. Heading over to Sunday Stills now. Please stay in touch. Joe
Spectacular sunsets!!!!
Thanks, Luanne,
The area around Whidbey Island is just stunning. Say “hi” to Frank for me. Joe
How beautiful! You’re in our favorite part of the country. 🙂 We spent eight summers as interpretive hosts on Lopez Island and made many trips to San Juan Island (right next door via ferry). It’s truly the most idyllic place to be in the summer. And yum, mussels! They’re one of my favorite seafoods. How fun that your neighbors invited you for dinner. Your sunset photos are gorgeous. So glad you’re having such a great trip!
Laurel,
I’m envious of anyone who had the good fortune to spend eight summers on Lopez Island. What wonderful memories you must have out of the experience! The mussels were awesome and we pried the brine recipe out of our host to use with clams. Do you have clams in your part of Florida? If so, we’ll cook some up on our next visit! We’re havin’ a ball! Two weeks to go!
Whidbey Island looks amazing.
Such an incredible trip.
Did you know you would have this many adventures when you first retired?
Donna,
I’m not sure I knew what I would do when I retired. I planned to do some traveling, but had no thoughts of spending six months a year in an RV, writing a blog, or taking up photography as a part-time hobby. We have had a wonderful time and realize how blessed we are…and so very grateful. The sunsets at Whidbey Island blew us away. LOVED the area and hope to return. Sorry we couldn’t cross the border, but it will happen at some point. Joe
Thanks for bringing back fond memories, Joe! I have a childhood friend who has lived on Whidbey for decades. The day she and her husband were married 30+ years ago, was a glorious, sunny summer day. Alan and I, along with other members of the wedding party, somehow managed to get separated from the bride and groom and ended up as walk-ons for the ferry from Mukilteo (where the church was) back to Whidbey for the reception. The ride was magnificent! It highlighted the natural beauty surrounding us and the pure joy of the occasion. I’ve never forgotten it. We camped at Deception Pass four years ago to visit those same friends and shakedown the new travel trailer we bought in Everett. That area of the Pacific Northwest is chock full of spectacular scenery and awe inspiring sunsets. SO happy you and Helen have enjoyed it so much. Your photos are wonderful!!!
Hi, Mary,
I understand completely how that experience from 30 years ago has remained with you. We loved everything about our visit, and will return I’m certain. As much as we loved camping at the Navy base in Coronado, I think this one might surpass it for beauty. Glad you liked the photos, I still enjoy looking through them. Have a great week! We’re in Denver and it’s HOT here! Joe
(OK, following your instructions got me to the comments “area”.)
Great pictures, Joe…and even better narrative. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but (wisely chosen) words add so much to pictures!!
Glad you got through and stopped by. Thanks for the kind comments–coming from a real photographer, I’m flattered. Have a great weekend! Joe
Joe, I am sure others have asked, however I don’t recall seeing the answer; are all military campgrounds available to all campers anytime, certain seasons, or only active or retired veterans, or does it vary by state? Great pictures! 🤠
Hi, Dan,
The short answer is that you need a military ID card to camp in a military campground. Active, Retired, active reservists and National Guard members, and, in some campgrounds, DOD Civilians are eligible. It’s a wonderful benefit, and one I never considered in my 24 years of active and reserve service. We’re in Colorado Springs, CO right now and in the campground at the US Air Force Academy. It’s a beautiful area and convenient to local attractions. Great to hear from you! Give Nancy a big hug from us! Joe
Thanks for your confirmation Joe. I thought it was just for active and veterans, but wasn’t sure. It sounds like you get a very good rate also, so enjoy! Enjoy the rest of your and Helen’s journey.
Thanks, Dan,
See you soon!