Flagstaff, AZ and Walnut Canyon National Monument

I intended to wrap up our summer trip with last week’s post, but while going through a stack of brochures in my trip file, I came across one from our visit to Walnut Canyon National Monument.  That experience was so fascinating. I had to share.

Walnut Canyon is northeast of Flagstaff, AZ. Helen and I were camping for a few days at Fort Tuthill Recreation Area, operated by Luke Air Force Base, and situated among some very tall pines in the Flagstaff area. Always on the lookout for something to do or a place to explore, Helen suggested we visit the National Monument and do a little day hiking. Keenly aware of knowing what’s best for me, I readily agreed and jumped in the truck. Walnut Canyon was a short twenty-minute drive from the campground.

We arrived at the Visitor’s Center to find it busier than I expected—the parking lot had quite a few cars. The Visitor Center was closed due to COVID restrictions, but some very friendly volunteers were seated at the front door. They gave us information on where to hike and some information on the history of the region. I have to admit; I had never heard of Walnut Canyon.

Sometime around the year 1125, the Sinagua people moved into the region.  Archeologists believe that the fertile soil and abundant wildlife offered them an opportunity to make a good living as farmers and traders. At first, they probably lived in pit homes at the top of the canyon but later began constructing rooms within the canyon walls, hollowed out by millions of years of water flowing over the soft limestone.  The rooms were small and partitioned by stones placed along the hollowed wall and covered by a plaster made of clay found in the canyon. These tiny rooms with small openings for access served as homes for the Sinagua for about 125 years. 

Helen and I began our hike by descending to the canyon rim, a 185-foot drop down 240 steps to the Island Trail.  The walk down the steps was not tricky, but I couldn’t help but think about the return trip back up.  After all, we’re standing at 7,000 feet in elevation.

The Island Trail is a one-mile paved loop along the canyon rim.  The view of Walnut Canyon is striking, and I put my camera to work. Vultures flew overhead as if waiting for someone to slip and fall to the bottom.  As far as I know, they went hungry on this day.

We passed about 25 of the rooms that served as dwellings for the Sinagua during our hike along the loop. Either these people were not very tall, or they spent a lot of time bent over. I understand that the residents usually covered the floors with pallets made of wood. Warming fires left smoke stains on the walls. Elaborate openings vented the smoke as well as odors created by cooking. Most of the dwellings faced to the south or east to capture heat from the sun.  Only a few faced north.

I found the whole experience incredibly intriguing.  We had visited similar dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park last year, but those structures were more extensive and more elaborate. I’m guessing that it was because the openings in the cliff walls were taller at Mesa Verde. The cliff homes in Walnut Canyon resembled attached condos with people living very close together along the Island Trail. Across Walnut Canyon, I could see other homes constructed similarly.

Archaeologists are unsure why the Sinagua left the region sometime around the year 1250. Some suggest that drought reduced the food and water supply significantly.  Others think that they departed for religious reasons since they believe that most of the Sinagua assimilated into the Hopi Culture as part of a quest to bring the region’s clans together. We’ll probably never know the entire story. The Sinagua left no written history.

Regardless of why they left, the little knowledge we have is captivating, and I’m thrilled that we had the opportunity to visit and to learn. Our visit to Walnut Canyon proves once again that we may be retired, but the learning never stops.

Now, if I can climb back up these 240 steps, we’ll be Easin’ Along…